"Freudenhaus der Liga?"

If you know anything about this place you'll probably be able to reel off the cliches of lawyers and anarchists standing side by side on decrepit terraces to create an amazing party atmosphere.

As for the reality, 3 quarters of the ground haven't seen so much as a lick of paint since the 60s but the newly opened Sud Kurve has VIP Boxes and seats costing as much as your average Premiership game. St Pauli's left wing ultras (USP) also inhabit the terracing at the front of the Sud Kurve.

Down one side is the Gegengerade (back straight) which is the traditional stronghold of the politically active supporters. This is a simple terrace with a dozen or so rows of covered seating built above. Tickets for this side are virtually impossible to get hold of.

Opposite the Gegengerade is the Haupttribune. (Main stand) A single tiered all seater affair providing a home for those who wish to watch their football with a little more polite applause. As of November 2009 this stand will be rebuilt, and out of use until sometime in 2010.

Finally the Nord Kurve, land of the intoxicated lumpen prole. Prepare for the smell of substances not all together legal and the inevitable shower of beer should St Pauli score. Recently a block of seats has been added above the original terracing, and a third of the end (nearest the Haupttribune) has been designated as for away fans.

Location

Between the infamous Reeperbahn red light district and the anarchist come yuppy Schanzenviertel the ground is in the heart of Hamburg. Directly next to U Bahn stations St Pauli and Feldstrasse and also within easy walk of S Bahn station Landungsbruecken means public transport is a dream, although parking may be a little more problematic.

View

I would presume the view from the newer sections above both ends are an improvement but elsewhere get your tiptoes and neck muscles warmed up for all the straining to see you'd expect on old fashioned terracing.

Update: The view from the new Sud Kurve is a big improvement, the terracing is a bit steeper than elsewhere. The view from the posh seats behind the terracing is also good unless you get put behind a post having paid a king's ransom for your seat.

Facilities

As with the view this could hardly be classed as a strong point, although maybe the miners lamp isn't required for the new Sud Kurve.

Food & Drink

Standard German affair of Currywurst and Bier. Astra is the strong local favourite, probably preferred for its cult status rather than its mediocre taste amongst a competitive field of German lagers.

Recommendations places for pre and post match refreshment:
The Jolly Roger bar, on Budapester Strasse. Run by St Pauli fans, serves Astra at 2 Euro per bottle (Oct 2009)

Kleine Pause, on the corner of Otzenstrasse and Wohlwillstrasse, serves Currywurst, giant Burgers and such like.

Blauer Peter, on Hamburger Berg, the perfect counterbalance to the over-hyped Reeperbahn scene, full of St Pauli fans.

Police & Stewards

Home fans are usually left in peace inside the ground, although Hamburg's finest have at times targeted groups such as USP on their way out of the ground. Racist or homophobic comments are likely to be met with opposition (verbal or physical) from St Pauli fans themselves before stewards/police are able to get involved.

For away fans St Pauli espouses a policy of allowing fans to bring displays/banners etc into the ground. (unless the away team has previously caused trouble). After a recent game against Kaiserslautern allegations were made that the stewards acted in a proactive manner and the boys in green don't usually need too much tempting to put their riot gear to use.

Atmosphere

The myth has it that the Millerntor is the Freudenhaus (house of pleasure or brothel depending on your translation) of German football, where a happy party atmosphere is ever present. Inspite of this myth the atmosphere was a bit of a let down for a while during the early part of this decade. Due to the move of USP to the Sud, and other factors, the atmosphere appears to be back at its raucous best. If however you watch a game between St Pauli and a team with a reputation for far right followers (eg Hansa Rostock, Dynamo Dresden and Chemnitz) prepare for a tense encounter.

Write your own review of Millerntor

Have you been to Millerntor? Write a review!